Beautiful bulbous Brazilian beauties
I haven’t liked Hippeastrums much, due to the poor bulbs in stores every Christmas – it seemed like an Amaryllis growing guide was needed. How many of these poor plants are kept going from year to year? Precious few, I’ll bet. However, my views have changed – those huge, exotic flowers can’t be beaten at such a grim time of year.
I was sorely tempted by some giant bulbs at Harrogate Autumn Flower Show, and I really regret not buying them – I was too knackered to go all the way back. I put that right by buying five bulbs at the Dutch Plants stall at Newcastle’s Christmas market. They are all named varieties, but I immediately mixed them up, so I’m having ‘fun’ identifying them as they flower. Here’s more on growing the biggest flowers. The Amaryllis is a tender bulb from Brazil and needs to be grown indoors when it’s cold. Once the frosts are over, specimens can be moved outside until the end of summer. Think of them like geranium (Pelargonium).
Potted guide: Amaryllis (Hippeastrum)
- Plant the bulb (pointy-end up) two-thirds in, one-third out of the compost.
- Use rich but very well-drained compost (add one-third horticultural grit or sand).
- They like to feel confined; put them in a heavy pot (they can topple over) just 5-6cm wider than the diameter of the bulb, with a crock in the bottom for drainage. Firm them in tightly to hold the bulb in place.
- Place the pot in a sunny position and water sparingly until you see 2″ of new growth, then water regularly.
- Turn the pot now and again for a straight stalk.
- Keep them in a bright, warm, sunny place, ideally at about 20°C, free from draughts of an open window, such as a shelf above a radiator.
- A support may be needed to keep the heavy blooms upright.
- Water regularly and flowers will appear five to eight weeks after planting. To prolong flowering, keep the pot out of direct sunlight.
Care after flowering
Once the plant is flowering, continue watering and keep it slightly cooler (10-15°C). As each bloom fades, cut it off at the top of the stalk and when the whole stalk is over and begins to sag, cut it off just above the bulb nose. After flowering, feed and water until the leaves begin to yellow in late summer/early autumn. At this stage, cut the leaves back to about 6cm (2½in) from the top of the bulb and remove it from the pot.
Keep the bulb cool (5-10°C) and dark, to give it a dormant period for eight weeks before bringing it into leaf and flower. Don’t re-pot it for the first couple of years; it hates root disturbance. The older and bigger the bulb, the more flowering stems you’ll get. Bulbs older than two years will produce offsets. These may be left attached, or you can remove them before you replant and pot them up – they’ll take a couple of years to flower. For more on Amaryllis problems, visit my red blotch page.
